![]() ![]() ![]() In a desire to continue offering our customers only the best possible product offerings, and to continue utilizing products approved by the CCMC, Great Northern Insulation will be transitioning from red Tuck Tape to blue Tuck Tape in the near future. Furthermore, in an evaluation report revised in April of 2016, it was found to be better formulated as a product acceptable for use in sealing joints on 6mm polyethylene vapour barrier products. Although commonly used as an acceptable product in sealing joints on vapour barriers and external sheathing, red Tuck Tape was never tested by the Canadian Construction Materials Centre (CCMC) specifically for this purpose.Recently, Cantech (the manufacturer of Tuck Tape Sheathing Tape) has begun to offer a CCMC-approved vapour barrier tape, commonly referred to as "Blue Tuck Tape." This new product is slightly thicker than the existing red Tuck Tape.įurthermore, in an evaluation report revised in April of 2016, it was found to be better formulated as a product acceptable for use in sealing joints on 6mm Recently, Cantech (the manufacturer of Tuck Tape Sheathing Tape) has begun to offer a CCMC-approved vapour barrier tape, commonly referred to as "Blue Tuck Tape." This new product is slightly thicker than the existing red Tuck Tape. When air-sealing a home, its very much worth the extra money it costs to get a better tape.Service Update: Vapour Barrier Tape Transition Noticeīeginning soon, Great Northern Insulation will be transitioning from the use of red "Tuck Tape Sheathing Tape for PE Vapour Barrier" to blue Tuck Tape of the same brand. Your typical roll of low-priced building tape becomes brittle in a fairly short period of time and is prone to cracking and coming unadhered. A high-quality tape (and I stress a HIGH quality – Airstop, Siga, Delta Multiband are a few names) will allow for a certain amount of movement and and not affect the air seal. The reason for that is spray foam can become brittle and diminish its ability to maintain a proper air seal over the long term in the event of any shifting. Again, that’s why we are more confident in the tape.Ī lot of people use spray foam in that cavity, that is a technique we ourselves find can lead to more moisture problems. ![]() The most important thing to make sure there is no moisture buildup between windows and rough openings is to prevent any air leaks, as warm humid air leaking out in winter will deposit moisture in that very spot you are concerned about. In The absence of any leaks, the source of any moisture in there would be the framing lumber itself, which as an ability (or at least should have the ability) to dry to the other side. With our window installation technique we had the same: a vapor / air barrier (tape) on the interior, insulation in the cavity, and wood on the exterior. Think about it like any section of a typical wall – you have a vapour barrier on one side, insulation, and wood sheathing on the exterior. Though that is more than likely a quality of work issue, if you are very cautious with your tape installation it’s a bit easier to ensure you’ve sealed it properly that with caulking in our experience.Īs for your moisture concerns, there wouldn’t be a lot of moisture buildup in an airtight space that small even if you did tape both sides. We were really happy with the air seal the tape provided, and when we conducted our blower door test we didn’t find a single leak through the taped windows but we found a few where it was caulked. If there is no hole where air can escape on one side of the wall then it won’t enter on the other side, so one air barrier is enough. We covered the exterior gap with wood, and caulked at the joints and junctions to prevent water from entering. If you did then you know we tried two approaches, backer rod and caulking as well as taping the window to the rough opening, on the interior side, no tape was installed on the exterior. I guess you saw our DIY video on how to install windows in our Edelweiss House videos. Emmanuel Cosgrove Best answer 4 years ago ![]()
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